Article Summary

Environmental Stressors and our Skin
The Limitations of Sunscreen
Vitamin C and Other Antioxidants
Stratia’s C+C Serum

Sunscreen is the foundation of any skincare routine - it reduces skin cancer risk, prevents premature aging, and protects against UV damage. But here’s the catch: sunscreen alone isn’t enough. Even if you’re diligent with application, sunscreen has its limitations. So, what’s the solution? In this blog, we’ll explore sunscreen’s limitations and reveal a key ingredient to enhance your sun protection.

Environmental Stressors and Our Skin

Our skin has a critical job. As the body’s first line of defense, it’s under constant attack from our environment. This can range from pollution and smoking to harmful UV rays and microorganisms. While the skin is built to protect and repair itself, it’s still under constant attack.

Pollution and smoking create unstable molecules called reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage DNA and skin structures, collectively referred to as oxidative stress
UV-B radiation directly damages DNA, while UV-A causes oxidative stress.

Despite these threats, the skin has several layers of protection:

Photoprotective Layer: Melanin absorbs UV light to protect skin cells.
Antioxidant System: The skin’s antioxidants donate electrons to stabilize ROS so they don’t cause harm
Antimicrobial Defense: Antimicrobial peptides and our own bacteria serve as in-built defenses against pathogens.
Physical Barrier: Dead skin cells and lipids keep water in and protect from physical injury while an acidic surface discourages growth of non-friendly microbes.
Mechanical Support: The underlying dermis provides support and nourishment to the epidermis.

But even with this intelligent design, the skin can only withstand so much. Excessive UV exposure can overwhelm and deplete the skin’s antioxidant system, leading to oxidative stress, while melanin only absorbs a portion of UV rays. That’s why supporting your skin and using additional protection is critical.

The Limitations of Sunscreen

Sun exposure is the single most damaging thing for our skin. Despite other beneficial wavelengths found in sunlight, high energy wavelengths like blue and ultraviolet light create oxidative stress (and photochemical reactions in the case of UV-B) that damage our DNA either directly or indirectly.

Sunscreen prevents the bulk of premature aging but most importantly, greatly decreases the risk of getting skin cancer. But while sunscreen is crucial, it has limitations:

Sunscreens don’t absorb 100% of UV radiation.
They require liberal application to achieve advertised SPF.
Reapplication is necessary as the sunscreen film can rub or sweat off.
Sunscreens only protect against UV exposure and not other environmental stressors.
Many sunscreens lack high level UVA protection.

The main obstacle to sunscreens working to their best ability is human error. Observational studies and polls suggest that in real life application settings, most consumers only apply 20-50% of the amount of sunscreen needed. Not applying evenly and skipping reapplication is another issue.

Even with perfect application, sunscreens don’t protect 100% and should be paired with the following safe sun habits:

Wear UPF-rated clothing and accessories.
Avoid peak sun hours.
Seek shade when possible.

However, if you’re aiming to prevent aging or hyperpigmentation, sunscreen alone may not be enough. This is where antioxidants come in.

The Role of Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a potent, well-researched antioxidant that can enhance your sun protection. When used in skincare it helps neutralize those free radicals we discussed. And if you do get some unintentional sun exposure, it can help reduce some of the damage after the fact.

Naturally occurring in the skin, Vitamin C plays a role in our skin’s antioxidant defenses and as cofactor for collagen synthesis, it’s essential for new collagen formation. Unfortunately, as we age, Vitamin C levels decline, making topical application beneficial. In addition to being an antioxidant, it can help repair sun damage, boost collagen production, and brighten for firmer, more radiant skin.

Vitamin C also complements sunscreen. When applied in the morning, it works in synergy with sunscreen to offer enhanced protection against oxidative stress - not just from the sun but from other environmental sources as well. Research shows that when paired with Vitamin E and ferulic acid, Vitamin C enhances photoprotection by eight-fold, increasing the skin’s defense from UV damage. 7

Antioxidants work best together, likely related to how they work:

Primary Antioxidants: Directly neutralize free radicals.
Secondary Antioxidants: Replenish or recycle antioxidants and repair oxidative damage.
Multifunctional Antioxidants: Offer additional skin protection, such as anti-inflammatory properties or metal ion chelation.

In addition to being categorized by their function, we can also categorize antioxidants by their structure as this influences where they work in the skin:

Fat-Soluble Antioxidants: protect the membranes of cells as well as lipids in our skin from damage.

Water-Soluble Antioxidants: protect the cytoplasm inside cells as well as any extracellular fluids.

Enzymatic Antioxidants: make up the bulk of our skin’s antioxidant defenses and applying topically could help replenish them

Topical Vitamin C falls into the water-soluble category but also helps replenish Vitamin E, can chelate free metal ions, and has anti-inflammatory properties.

Formulation and Stratia's C+C Serum

Vitamin C is effective in skincare but tricky to formulate witha. Its active form, ascorbic acid, is unstable and prone to oxidation, which can render it ineffective. The research of Dr. Pinnell, and the resulting Skinceuticals serum, profoundly influenced Vitamin C formulations to come by establishing the following formulation criteria:

A low pH (below 3.5).
Additional antioxidants like Vitamin E and ferulic acid for stabilization.
15-20% concentration for maximum effect though subsequent research shows 10% can also be effective.

Instead of following this path, Stratia Skin went in another direction entirely, developing a highly innovative, stable Vitamin C formula. The C+C Serum uses volatile silicones, which allow us to omit water - minimizing oxidation - while maintaining a cosmetically elegant texture. Here’s what makes it stand out:

10% ascorbic acid: Water-soluble and effective while minimizing irritation
5% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: The best researched of the Vitamin C derivatives, this fat-soluble antioxidant has potential to further increase ascorbic acid penetration.
Vitamin E: Works synergistically with Vitamin C for enhanced protection.
Coenzyme Q10: Supports the skin’s antioxidant defenses while recycling Vitamin C and replenishing Vitamin E.
Bisabolol: Reduces UV-induced inflammation and works with antioxidants to repair skin.

BIG NEWS: the C+C Serum bottle has received a major upgrade. No pump fails, no product waste, and more sustainable than ever.

Why depart from what’s been tried and true? Adding antioxidants helps slow down the rate of oxidation but ascorbic acid in water-containing formulas remains unstable. Once oxidized to dehydroascorbic acid, it loses its effectiveness and should be discarded when it turns dark orange to rusty brown or develops a metallic smell. This makes it challenging to use up a Vitamin C serum before it expires and some consumers experience staining from oxidation throughout the day.

To address this, some brands have opted for more stable formulas by eliminating water or using alternative approaches. Before Stratia’s C+C launch, common strategies included:

Silicone suspensions: Ascorbic acid suspended in silicone to avoid water, though the texture was often gritty and felt like applying a thick silicone primer.
Vitamin C derivatives: Oil-soluble versions can be used in waterless formulations while water-soluble derivatives offer a more stable option for typical serums. Many lack sufficient research on their conversion to active form in the skin.

Tips for Using the C+C Serum

Morning application: Use under sunscreen to maximize skin protection.
First step: Apply to clean, dry skin and wait a few minutes for the silicones to evaporate before layering other products.
Start slow: If you’re new to Vitamin C, start with a few times a week and gradually increase usage.

Frequently Asked Questions: Vitamin C Edition

“Should I use Vitamin C for melasma or sun spots?”

Vitamin C is great for preventing pigmentation (alongside sunscreen), but for existing spots, consider more effective pigment inhibitors like azelaic acid or hydroquinone.

“Can Vitamin C help with anti-aging?”

Vitamin C prevents premature aging, supports collagen production, and may reduce fine lines. But you’re starting to see visible signs of aging pop up on the skin, pair it with a retinoid like Stratia’s Night Shift for best results.

“My skin doesn’t like Vitamin C. What should I use?”

If Vitamin C irritates your skin, try niacinamide - another multitasker with anti-inflammatory, brightening, and antioxidant properties. It’s paired with additional ingredients to further boost these properties in our Rewind Serum.

Conclusion

Let’s recap what we’ve learned:

Sunscreen is the most important part of your routine but has a few limitations.
Sunscreen should be part of a comprehensive sun protection strategy.
Antioxidants like Vitamin C can boost photoprotection and protect against other environmental stressors.
Vitamin C is a research-backed antioxidant that helps repair UV damage and boosts collagen production.
Formulation is key to Vitamin C’s effectiveness; Stratia’s C+C Serum offers superior stability without sacrificing cosmetic elegance.
Stratia C+C combines antioxidants for enhanced skin protection.

References

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Supercharging Your Sun Protection with Vitamin C