Dermaplaning has become one of the most talked-about facial treatments, reportedly exfoliating skin while also removing unwanted peach fuzz. The promised result? Glowing skin and the perfect canvas for makeup application. But is dermaplaning really that different from simply shaving your face? And do you need to visit a professional or can you do it at home?

In this blog, we’ll break down how dermaplaning works, who it’s best suited for, the tools involved, and whether this trending treatment lives up to the hype.

The History and Benefits of Shaving

Shaving dates back thousands of years, evolving from primitive tools to straight razors and modern safety razors. While hair removal methods have been used by women throughout history, it wasn’t until the early 20th century where shaving became widespread and brands like Gillette started marketing to women. Today, the skincare benefits of shaving are also discussed.

The attraction of shaving will inevitably vary according to preference as well as practicality - shaving often becomes more common with clothing styles that leave arms and legs bare. Because shaving should be left up to individual preference, this blog will focus on how shaving relates to skin. It is not meant to suggest that women - or men - should shave.

Benefits of Shaving Your Face:

• Smoother Makeup Application: Makeup can blend and sit better on the skin.

• Improved Skin Appearance: The appearance of the skin often looks smoother and more radiant. 

• Exfoliation: Shaving removes the dead skin cells at the skin surface and may improve product penetration. 

• Vellus Hair Removal: Safely removes fine, soft facial hair for women (can also be used to remove coarser hair).

While shaving has benefits, it’s not without potential risks - especially if done improperly.

Common Shaving Issues:

• Ingrown hairs

• Skin irritation

• Hyperpigmentation

• Folliculitis (inflamed hair follicles)

• Skin purging or infection

Proper tools and techniques are key to minimizing these risks as well as ensuring you’re the right candidate.

Common Shaving Myths

Myth #1: Shaving Makes Hair Grow Back Thicker and Darker

This is a common misconception. Shaving only cuts the hair at the skin’s surface, creating a blunt tip. The hair may feel coarser as it regrows, but shaving does not alter the hair follicle which is responsible for shape. Hormonal changes—not shaving—determine whether vellus hair becomes coarse hair AKA terminal hair.

Myth #2: Dermaplaning Isn’t Shaving

While professional dermaplaning involves a scalpel and provides more exfoliation, it is essentially a form of shaving (and isn’t dissimilar to a barber using a straight blade). Compared to using a safety razor at home, a dermaplaning treatment with a professional will provide much more exfoliation. 

Myth #3: Dermaplaning Can’t Be Done at Home

While at-home dermaplaning tools don’t provide the deep exfoliation of a scalpel in-office, they can still do a great job removing hair and may offer gentle exfoliation.

Myth #4: You Need Special Products

Good lighting, a fresh blade, and the right skincare before and after is all you need. Sprays marketed toward helping you identify hair are often unnecessary and while eyebrow trimmers make look more like a scalpel, they’re often more irritating to the skin than just using a safety razor. 

Tools and Techniques

While shaving isn’t rocket science and many of us already consider ourselves proficient, the face is a little different. Purging is something we want to avoid whenever possible and it’s essential to use a dedicated razor to reduce to risk of ingrown hairs or folliculitis. Replace your razor and store somewhere clean and dry.

Tools and Supplies to Consider:

• Shaving Tool.

• Safety Razors: Beginner friendly and gentle on skin. Best if your main goal is hair removal.

• Sonic Dermaplaning Tool: Can be a happy medium if you want both hair removal and exfoliation at home.

• Scalpel: Best used in-office by a professional.

• Foaming or Gel Cleanser.

• Soothing and Barrier Focused Skincare.

• Hypochlorous Acid (optional, for purging)

• Sheet Mask (optional, for hydration and calming)

Best Practices:

1. Prep Your Skin: Cleanse thoroughly. For a dermaplaning tool you can use oil for glide or let skin dry fully so the razor doesn’t grab. Safety razors can be used with your facial cleanser.

2. Shave with the Grain: Begin by following the direction of hair growth to avoid irritation.

3. Check as You Go. Use light and feel to make sure you didn’t miss any areas.

4. After-Care: Use a soothing serum or repairing moisturizer like Stratia Skin Interface to help calm and repair skin.

Should You Dermaplane?

Who Should Try Dermaplaning:

• Anyone looking to remove facial hair

It’s a short list and it’s important to note that dermaplaning (and shaving in general) is an optional treatment. Shave is a great option for those wanting a temporary, painless method of hair removal with the added benefit of exfoliation.

But if hair removal isn’t the goal, skip this one. There’s better exfoliating treatments out there. And if you do want hair removal but don’t wish to shave often, waxing can last longer or there’s longer lasting methods like laser hair removal.

Who Should Avoid It:

• Those with active acne, rosacea, or a skin infection

• Individuals taking Accutane

• Anyone with skin that is compromised including cuts or scrapes

• Anyone with other contraindications not listed here or advised not to by a doctor 

It should also be said that professional dermaplaning with a scalpel is exfoliating away much of the skin barrier. Our skin barrier serves as a vital protection against our environment and helps keep moisture in. Because of this, dermaplaning may not be advised if you are a sensitive skin type or have an underlying skin disorder as this treatment can aggravate these concerns.

Takeaway

Shaving your face—whether through traditional dermaplaning or at-home tools—can be helpful if your goal is the removal of vellus hair while the exfoliation serves as an added perk. If your sole goal is exfoliation, there are other - better - treatments. And remember, shaving is a personal choice, not a necessity.

Mira is a skincare educator, blogger, and the content creator behind Skin Science by Mira and The Skincare Forum on Facebook. While skincare keeps her busy, she’s also pursuing her degree in Nursing and loves to spend her free time hiking.  As a content writer for Stratia Skin, Mira shares her evidence-based approach to skincare topics and a passion for making science accessible.