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INGREDIENT GLOSSARY • Humectant
Urea
AT A GLANCE
Urea

A Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) that hydrates, softens, decreases flakiness, and strengthens the skin barrier

Type of Ingredient

Humectant

Why we use it

Of all the wonderful active ingredients in skincare, urea may have the most uneven ratio of a huge amount of research backing it up to relatively little use in skincare products. It’s a Natural Moisturizing Factor, meaning your skin produces it to manage hydration levels in the epidermis. It’s a world-class humectant, is gently exfoliating, and can strengthen skin barrier function.

What it’s in

Aqua Factory

Urea has a long history in skincare, both cosmetic and medical. It was first used in wound care for its antimicrobial properties, but has long been a valuable addition to cosmetic skincare for its hydrating and softening powers.

At lower levels, like the 5% we use in our Aqua Factory, urea has several key benefits. As a Natural Moisturizing Factor, it’s incredible at increasing hydration levels in the skin and holding onto that hydration all day. By maintaining hydration levels in the skin, it also helps skin cells shed normally, reducing flakiness and clogged pores. It can strengthen the skin barrier and decrease TEWL, it can soothe irritation and decrease reactivity, and it can also help other skin actives penetrate more deeply.

At higher percentages – above 10% – urea acts as a keratolytic, actively exfoliating the skin. At levels around 30-50%, it’s often used to treat calluses on the feet. It also has a number of medical uses for skin conditions such as psoriasis, ichthyosis, and atopic dermatitis. Although urea is found in urine, the urea used in skincare is synthetically derived.

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